Shōgun: What Is Nattō, Explained

Shōgun Episode 4, “The Eightfold Fence,” includes a memorable scene of John Blackthorne chowing down on a bowl of nattō – so what exactly is this Japanese delicacy?

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What Is Nattō in FX’s Shōgun?

“The Eightfold Fence” sees John Blackthorne familiarizing himself with the culture of feudal Japan in the fishing village Ajiro. This includes improving his fluency in the Japanese language and coming to grips with local food and customs. Along the way, Blackthorne asks to sample a bowl of nattō, despite Toda Mariko’s warning that the English sailor probably won’t like it.

Mariko’s assumption ultimately proves unfounded, though. Indeed, while Blackthorne’s off-the-cuff review of nattō is ostensibly less than flattering – he describes it as having the taste, smell, and texture of “spoiled cheese” – he polishes off the lot. So, what is nattō? And does it really mirror the qualities of overripe fromage?

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Nattō is a popular Japanese food that dates as far back as 300 BC (historians debate exactly who invented the dish and when). It’s made from fermented soybeans and often served with rice. Additional traditional nattō accompaniments include karashi mustard, soy sauce, tare sauce, and bunching onion. Nattō is most commonly served at breakfast, however, it is also enjoyed at other times of the day, as well – so, fret not: Shōgun didn’t get this detail wrong.

Shōgun also accurately recreated nattō’s distinctive, slimy texture and (based on Blackthorne’s dialogue) pungent aroma. Similarly, Blackthorne likening nattō to stinky cheese is bang on the money. This is indeed the scent associated with nattō, and it’s also reflected in the staple food’s pronounced umami taste. The latter goes unremarked upon by Blackthorne, presumably because “umami” isn’t a word this fledgling scholar of all things Japan is familiar with yet!

Regardless, Shōgun deserves top marks for its portrayal of nattō in “The Eightfold Fence” – particularly its “acquired taste” status.

Shōgun is currently airing on FX, with new episodes dropping Tuesdays.